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Friday, April 15, 2016

Goreme: Green Line Tour 绿线团

今天要为大家介绍的是卡帕多奇亚著名的绿线团,比起红线,我觉得绿线的行程更多变和好玩。除了看奇形怪状的石头,还可以参观地下城市。
我的绿线配套是通过我的旅馆Elif Star Cave Hotel预定的,149欧元的配套含括了热气球,绿线团和机场接送(一趟)服务,个人觉得是价格是公道的。有兴趣的人不妨send email到旅馆查询相关资料吧!绿线配套包括了景点入门票和午餐。
So, I talked about Red Line tour in my previous post, today, Green Line tour should become the main topic in this pots. I prefer the Green line over the Red line tour, the views are more scenic and I had the chance to explore the infamous underground city lies underneath Cappadocia.
I booked the Green Line tour from my hotel, 149 Euro package which inclusive of Hot Air Balloon ride, Green Line tour and one way airport transfer, the price is reasonable for me. Entrance fees and lunch are included in the package. If you need more information, kindly pm Elif Star Cave Hotel manager at HERE.

我们在卡帕多奇亚的第二天早上乘搭了热气球后,早上9点便乘着车子出发,开始我们一天的行程了。我们旅馆的经理Kadir也是我们报名的绿线团的导游,大爱他的英文腔调,听了很舒服,他的讲解让我对卡帕多奇亚的形成和历史有更深的认识。
Our Green Line tour departs from hotel at 9am, and our hotel manager, Mr Kadir is the tour guide of our trip. He gave a very detailed history background for underground cities, Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastry. 
PS: Introduction of the tourist spots are copied from Cappadocian Guide website. and the tourist book I bought.

第一站First stop:Goreme Panorama
这里是拍照的好地方,可以看到峡谷里一座座三角形的石头,还可以眺望这里最高的火山Mt Argeus(3917米),Kadir在这里告诉我们卡帕多奇亚的奇景是如何形成的。
容许我以仅存的些许回忆告诉你们我所获得的资讯,1千2百万年前,这里有几座活火山,火山每爆发一次就会在地表上形成一层又一层的火山灰,之后在经历万年的风雨侵蚀后就形成了现在的风貌。卡帕多奇亚的北边,有很多峡谷;南部的石头较硬,所以这里有很多地下城市。
This is a good place for photo shooting, and if you are lucky, you can see the tallest volcano mountain Mt Argeus(3917 metres) from here. Millions of years ago, the ancient volcanic mountains spread their volcanic ashes over the area, and then for thousands upon thousands of years, the winds blew and the rivers snaked through the lands and perhaps one of the most horrendous erosion events of all times became the geological miracle called Cappadocia. Most of the valleys located at the north side of Cappadocia and the underground cities lie underneath the southern area.


在Goreme Panorama拍照和听讲解后,我们便出发到地下城市了。一路上,Kadir为我们讲解了地下城市背后的历史故事,和胡志明的CuChi Tunnel一样,战争促使了这些地下城市的出现。公元7-12世纪间,卡帕多奇亚的基督徒为了躲避敌人的追杀,便在地底下挖掘了一座又一座的地下城市。地下城里有完善的设备(教堂,各家的居所,牧羊的地方等),而且通风系统也做得很好,我们在里面并不会感到呼吸困难。
After a short photo session at Goreme Panorama, we departed to Derinkuyu Underground City. During the 7th through the 12th centuries AD the people of this area were under the constant threat of advancing armies, so the Christians who inhabited these lands excavated underground cities. Here they built complete cities that sheltered the people and their animals for centuries. 

我们参观的Derinkuyu地下城市,是最深的地下城市,已于1985年被列为UNESCO文化遗产。卡帕多奇亚有很多地下城市,已经对外开放的有大约40座,Derinkuyu地下城和Kaymali地下城是最广为人知的,而且这两座城市是互通的。(古人好厉害哦~)
We visited Derinkuyu Underground City, which is the largest and deepest of these cities, and it is listed as UNESCO heritage site at year 1985. Derinkuyu is connected to Kaymali(another big underground city) by an underground road of 10km. 

Derinkuyu地下城市是规模最大的,对外开放的有8层。
Total of 8 floors of Derinkuyu are opened to public. 
地下城市构图(像是蚂蚁窝)
The layout of underground city
楼梯口很小,一次只可以一个人走。
这里的地下城市通道比起越南的CuChi Tunnel真的宽阔很多。
The passageway is small, but it is wider than the CuChi Tunnel in Vietnam.

有些通道需要弯腰才能前进。
We need to bend down at certain small and narrow passageway.
猜猜看这是什么?
往下看就知道了~
Do you know what is this?
答案:通风口
Derinkuyu地下城可以容纳多达4万人,
如何让大家安全的生活在地下几个月,
最主要的是靠这个排风口。

Answer: Ventilation shaft
It provides fresh air deep within the undergroud city


因为是用来躲避敌人的入侵,
这里的主要通道都有石盘以保护城里的居民。

Stone door at the main passageway,
to block the corridors in the event of an attack,
我们的导游Kadir为我们讲解中。
Story telling by Kadir
 这里是教堂
Church in underground city
箭头所指的地区是用来栓家畜的地方
The place where the animals are tied at

我们在Derinkuyu地下城逗留大约1小时后,边往Ihlara峡谷出发。Ihlara峡谷是卡帕多奇亚最大,最长,最深的峡谷(当然这不能和美国的大峡谷相比~),峡谷的两旁都有很多彩绘石窟教堂,因为这里曾是拜占庭时期基督徒最喜欢的隐修地之一。
We spent about an hour to explore Derinkuyu, before we move to Ihlara Valley, which is the longest, largest and deepest canyon in Cappadocia. There are alots of cave churches along the valley as Christian monks like to meditate at here during Byzantine time. 

=D
我们参观的其中一个教堂:Agacalti Church
Agacalti Church with murals.
Ihlara峡谷是徒步的好地方。
溪水潺潺,绿树成荫,
我很爱这里,好平静。
I was amazed with the peaceful and serene view along the valley.
我们在中途停下,这家卖的煎饼好好吃。
We had a 5 minutes break during the 4km hiking,
the pancake is nice.
我们在峡谷末端的一家参观吃午餐。
We took our lunch at the restaurant at Belisirma

吃了午餐后,我们便出发到建在石山内部的Selime修道院,据说,导演George Lucas原本是想在卡帕多奇亚这里拍摄电影星球大战的,但是土耳其政府不批准,最终电影才在非洲突尼西亚开拍。蚂蜂窝是这样介绍Selime修道院:“山岩上寸草不生,远远望去像是一只千疮百孔的庞大外星生物,怒发冲冠将触角伸向四面八方,让人顿生畏惧。”
We left Ihlara Valley and heads to Selime Monastery, which is carved 8 floor into the volcanic rock, is the largest complex of its kind in Cappadocia. According to tour guide, initial plan of Director George Lucas was to film Star Wars series in Cappadocia, however it was banned by the Turkey government. 
需要往上爬才能抵达的修道院。
走道只有一只脚的宽度。
We need to hike a little bit to reach the cathedral.
And the path is the width of one leg
攀爬到最高点,这里的美景一览无遗。
The view is superb from the top.
曾经的教堂,壁画都被烧毁了。
Mural in cathedral was ruined by fire.

在Selime修道院呆了1个小时后,我们的绿线途也算结束了。在回程的路上,我们在鸽子谷逗留一阵子。
We ended our Green Line tour with a 10 minutes stopover at Pigeon Valley.

这样的景色,看得我如痴如醉。
Paddlepop sky with the most wonderful landscape in the world
I miss Cappadocia

走完绿线团后,也许很多人会和我朋友一样对这些石头有疲惫感;而我却觉得大自然用几万年的时间塑造了这个奇形怪状的月球地貌,再加上人类的宗教文化历史,将卡帕多奇亚变成了一个有她独特魅力的地方。
My conclusion for Cappadocia
Mother of Nature gave Cappadocia a geological miracle, the mankind gave Cappadocia the historical and cultural miracle, this place is simply irresistible for me.

下一章:酷毙的热气球。
Next post: the super cool Hot Air Balloon ride

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Goreme: Red Line Tour 红线游

来到格莱姆,除了热气球,另一个必玩的就是参观他们的红,绿和蓝线景点。基本上,多数人都是参与红绿线,除了是因为蓝线的景点有些远以外,基本上大家在这逗留的时间也是3天2夜。
Go!Mitty这次参观了红绿两条线,这篇文章也会和大家分享红线的景点,下一篇则会介绍绿线,Turkish Night Show和热气球。

Welcome to my Goreme post. 
So what is the must do things in Goreme?
Answer: Take a hot air balloon ride, join of the tours(red, green or blue line tour).
Travelers normally spend 3D2N in Goreme, so Red and Green lines are in their list, which is in our list too.
So, this post is all about my Red Line Tour.

如何玩红线?
主要的方法有3种:自驾,包车(不包导游)和跟团
原本我们选择自驾,可是后来因为我们遇见了两位同样来自马来西亚的朋友,就变成6人行,所以我们干脆包车算了。价钱呢,我真的忘了,抱歉!

3 ways to explore Red Line: Self drive, hire a driver, follow tour
Our initial plan was to self drive, but then, we met a pair of Malaysian couple, so we decided to spend the day together by hiring a driver. I forgotten the price for hiring a driver.

我们早上6点抵达Goreme,check in 酒店(按连接到我们的住宿:Elif Star Cave Hotel),在房间磨磨蹭蹭一下后,11点才出发所以最终没去到我梦寐以求的Uchisar Castle。
We reached Goreme at 6am, so after check in to our hotel (Click the link to Elif Star Cave Hotel), we departed at 11am for our red line tour. I couldn't make a trip to Uchisar Castle, what a waste, as I wish to reach the top of castle and enjoy the panoramic view of Goreme.

我们的第一站就是去参观格莱姆露天博物院(可以使用Museum Pass),这里也是一个被列为世界文化遗产的景点。可惜的是我没有导游,就算是读了看板上的讲解,我还是不能好好地欣赏这里的点点滴滴,不喜欢这样走马看花的感觉。
We started our tour by dropping at Goreme Open Museum. I feel so so so regret for not joining a tour, because without explanation from tour guide, I couldn't appreciate the history behind Goreme Open Air Museum, which is a UNESCO cultural heritage site (entrance fee included in Museum Pass) as well as how the beautiful valleys formed. So, if you are a history lover, hire a tour guide; if your purpose is to check-in, then you can explore the tourist spots on your own.

教堂内的壁画
Mural in the churches within Goreme Open Air Museum

第二站Second station:Urgup Fairy Chimneys

仙人烟囱,很像是戴着帽子的3兄弟。
Urgup Fairy Chimneys, the symbol rocks of Cappadocia.
It looks like 3 siblings with caps. 


第三站Third station:Devrent Valley
以这个骆驼石头闻名的峡谷
This valley is famous with this camel-alike rock.

第四站Forth stop:Pasabag Valley
大爱红线的这个地方。
蘑菇形状的石柱,好像是蓝精灵的家乡哦~
I kept on telling my friends that, this is Smurf Valley.
Mushroom shaped rocks standing in front of me.
Where are my smurfs?
Lalalalala, sing a happy song~~~
第五站Fifth stop:Cavusin Village
这里的全景其实很漂亮,只是我拍不出这里的全景。
The view here is nice as shown below.
Why I can't snap the same kind of picture one?
照片摘自网络
Picture from Google

第六站Last station:Rose Valley? Red Valley? 傻傻分不清
我分不清这到底是在红谷还是玫瑰谷。
对我来说,都是一样的。*哭*
Anyway,黄昏的峡谷很漂亮吧?
天空的颜色很像小时候常吃的冰淇淋。
The valley looks nice during sunset
The sky looks like icecream, paddlepop.
I singing the paddlepop song like crazy when I was here.
Image result for paddlepop
天空的颜色有米有像这冰淇淋?
Aint the sky looks like it?

好啦,以一张帅气的照片结束这篇一点也不帅气的文章。
Ok lah, end my post with a yeng pose on ATV.